Author Archives: simon

28. Innis & Gunn Oak Aged Beer

Back north of the border we go, for this strong Scottish ale. And this is no ordinary ale as, once brewed, Innis & Gunn Original is matured for over 70 days, 30 of which are in oak barrels of the type more typically used to age wines and spirits, such as cognac.

This is actually one beer that I’m already familiar with. At the risk of spoiling the surprise, I happen to think this is a bit of a cracker.

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Innis & Gunn Original is a lovely, deep honey colour, and it’s no surprise that they’ve chosen a colourless bottle to show it off. In fact, a lot of pride has gone into the presentation in general, for example that ornate, shiny label.

The beer pours with little to no head, just a light lacing. There’s a distinctive aroma suggesting that this is something a little different, with the oakiness immediately becoming apparent, and reminiscent of an oaked Chardonnay.

The oak carries across into the flavour, where it’s smoky and fat, and is joined by butterscotch, toffee, bitter orange, strong vanilla and even cognac-like notes. There’s just enough sweetness to balance out the 6.6% strength.

This is a very complex beer indeed, and it really works, since all the flavours combine perfectly into something a bit special.

Strangely enough, though, I don’t think I could manage more than one. It’s such a rich beer, and the sweetness could become a little cloying, but enjoyed in moderation it’s unusually good.

Very much a favourite, and incidentally, there is also a “Rum Finish” version of this beer, which is aged in casks which—as the name suggests—have previously held dark rum. The rum notes are very noticeable, and it works remarkably well.

Facts and Figures

Brewery: Innis & Gunn Brewing Co, Edinburgh, Scotland
Style: Scottish Ales
ABV: 6.6%
Found at: Waitrose, Whitecross Street, London EC1
Dispense: 330ml Bottle

27. Kirin Ichiban

Now then. Finally an actual bottle of pale lager that has no pretensions of being anything else. There are—perhaps unsurprisingly—very few of these in The Book, and whilst I’m by no means a lager drinker, I’m willing to consider that the handful that are in there are chosen for a reason.

Apparently Ichiban (meaning “the first”) is made with the single, first pressing of the wort in the mash tun. The finer points of the mechanics of brewing are lost on me, but I suppose that must be the beery equivalent of making extra virgin olive oil.

Kirin Ichiban

Kirin Ichiban certainly looks the part, with its very smart silver and gold embossed label featuring Japanese text and an ornate depiction of what seems to be a horse/dragon hybrid creature.

It’s pretty fizzy and pale, as befits a lager, with a generous frothy white head. There’s a nice malty whiff to it that I’m starting to learn is typical of the better quality examples of the style.

Ichiban is actually rather tasty. It’s fuller-bodied than expected, and very refreshing, but with enough of bitter finish to make this really quite a satisfying bottle of beer. Not bad at all.

Incidentally, I note that my bottle is actually brewed under licence in the UK, by Wells & Young’s of all people. It would be interesting to see how the original Japanese version compares.

Facts and Figures

Brewery: Wells and Young’s, Bedford, England
Style: Pale Lagers
ABV: 5.0%
Found at: Bossman Wines, Lordship Lane, London SE22
Dispense: 330ml Bottle

26. Achouffe La Chouffe

Time for yet another super-strength Belgian blonde beer. This time, however, the label forgoes the standard allusions to monks, abbeys and the Middle Ages. Instead we have this funny little bearded cartoon gnome character—the eponymous “La Chouffe”.

In fact, rather than tracing its heritage back to some distant historical legend involving cloistered friars and royal benefactors, the Brasserie d’Achouffe dates from the 1970s, when two Belgian home brewers decided to give up their day jobs. This could be interesting.

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While it pours somewhat darker, La Chouffe doesn’t taste a great deal different to Bosteels Karmeliet Tripel but is smoother, dryer and a little fuller-bodied. It’s drinkable enough, and doesn’t taste as strong as 8% ABV.

Apparently the beer is flavoured with coriander. I couldn’t detect it at all, but I may be alone in that, since others could.

I don’t mind La Chouffe at all, though on the other hand I still find it hard to get excited by beers of this style.

Perhaps the reason that a lot of these extra strong Belgian beers are lost on me is to do with context. A beverage like this probably isn’t designed for an icy South London evening. Drinking it in the sun outside a Sainte-Catherine café bar with Moules-frites might be quite a different experience.

Facts and Figures

Brewery: Brasserie d’Achouffe, Achouffe, Belgium
Style: Golden Ales
ABV: 8.0%
Found at: City Beverage Company, Old Street, London EC1
Dispense: 330ml Bottle

25. Greene King Abbot Ale

Time for another of the many widely-available, slightly less than exciting English bitters that pervade The Book.

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Unfortunately Abbot Ale does little to counter my growing ennui with the style. It tastes like an English bitter, though it’s a little smoother than many. The malt and hops are very well balanced, but there’s a faintly stinky whiff to it that also comes across in the flavour.

If you concentrate, there’s a slightly dry, bitter finish, but at a mere 26 bitterness units we are going to require chess Grandmaster levels of concentration to spot it.

It seems possible that Abbot Ale has the potential to be a much better beer on cask, if well-kept and served at its best, but I won’t go out of my way to find out, since it has been quite unremarkable the few times I have had it in pubs.

On a more positive note, I can recommend the seasonal, and much stronger Abbot Reserve, if you can find it.

Facts and Figures

Brewery: Greene King Brewery, Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Style: Best Bitters
ABV: 5.0%
Found at: Maxy Supermarket, Norwood Road, London SE24
Dispense: 500ml Bottle

24. Anchor Liberty Ale

Having been so pleasantly surprised by Anchor Steam Beer, I was impatient to crack on with the second in the triumvirate of Anchor beers in The Book (on which note, if anyone knows where I can find the Old Foghorn in London, do let me know).

Anchor Liberty Ale comes in a similar bottle to the Steam Beer, but with its very own sailor tattoo. Let’s see how it compares.

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Liberty Ale pours a nice enough, slightly hazy golden colour, and is relatively pale even for a Pale Ale.

In our big yellow bible of beer, Roger Protz describes Liberty Ale as “massively” hoppy, and “an assault of pine and grapefruit”, followed by a “long and lingering finish”. He must have more sensitive tastebuds than me, because to me it just tastes a little bit hoppy, and a little bit plain, with something a bit funky going on in the aftertaste. That’s the bad kind of funk rather than the Nile Rodgers kind.

In some ways I’m not surprised to learn the Liberty Ale was inspired by fairly dull English bitters like Timothy Taylor’s Landlord and the Marston’s Pedigree I bought some time ago and haven’t troubled myself to drink yet.

It’s not a patch on the Anchor Steam Beer, and once again I feel I’m being slightly unfair in comparing one beer to a quite different beer that I just happened to like, but there you go, it’s my blog. It’s not a bad beer, but to my tastes, nothing to write home about.

Facts and Figures

Brewery: Anchor Brewing Co, San Francisco, CA
Style: Pale Ales
ABV: 5.9%
Found at: Bossman Wines, Lordship Lane, London SE22
Dispense: 355ml Bottle

23. Harviestoun Bitter & Twisted

Finally, our first of several trips north of the border to Scotland. I’m wondering if this will be a nostalgic experience, reminiscent of my student years drinking 80/- ales in the pubs and bars of Edinburgh until 3am.

That said, my only actual experience of Harviestoun’s beers dates from far more recently, here in London. I’ve had their Old Engine Oil porter a few times in The Commercial, SE24, and couldn’t get enough of it.

This one seems a bit of an enigma though. Its Clackmannanshire provenance suggests a smooth Scottish ale, the name suggests it might be a bitter, but the label tells me it’s a blond beer. There’s only one way to settle this.

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Fair enough, it’s a blond, bitter Scottish ale, and very nice it is too. As is often the case in Scotland, it’s made from Barley, Wheat and Oats, which is about the only thing it has in common with Bosteels Karmeliet Tripel.

At 4.2% the Bitter and Twisted is eminently sessionable. In that respect, we’re vaguely into the territory inhabited by the recent Timothy Taylor’s Landlord, but I have to say this one is noticeably more exciting and indeed satisfying.

This is a really good, hoppy bitter and it’s hopelessly drinkable. I’m not sure I picked up on the “like the twist of a lemon” notes that the bottle promises, but that’s probably for the best given my tastes. The hops are front and centre, and deliver a mouthwatering bitterness, while the restrained use of carbonation prevents things getting gassy.

Good stuff, and I’d certainly knock back another bottle if I had one. Perhaps more to the point, I’d love to find this in more London pubs in place of the relentless tide of Doom Bar and London Pride that we’re usually offered.

Facts and Figures

Brewery: Harviestoun Brewery, Alva, Clackmannanshire, Scotland
Style: Scottish Ales
ABV: 4.2%
Found at: Waitrose Food Court at John Lewis, Oxford Street, London W1
Dispense: 500ml Bottle

22. Anchor Steam Beer

This is the first of the two Anchor beers that I’ve got hold of so far, and I’ve been intrigued by these handsome little bottles, both wearing their San Francisco provenance with pride, with their sailor tattoo label artwork.

As a “Steam Beer”, this particular brew is in a category of exactly one beer in The Book. I’ve actually no idea what a Steam Beer is, and there seem to be several theories as to how the term came about. None of them seem particularly convincing or well corroborated, so I’ll leave the origins of the name as an exercise for the reader.

I’m vaguely expecting this to be a pretty ordinary lager, but I’ve had that preconception about American beer before and been pleasantly surprised, so this could be interesting.

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Just like with the Brooklyn Lager, Anchor Steam Beer pours a lot darker than expected. In fact it’s kind of a butterscotch, caramel colour.

And goodness me, but this also tastes nothing like a lager. It’s a really flavoursome, big kind of beer. There’s a robust malty body, a hint of butterscotch sweetness, and a huge long bitter finish, aided by a light effervescence that helps drive the flavours home.

There’s something very old-fashioned about the beer, to the extent that when you learn that the style dates from the 1890s, when it was brewed for thirsty Gold Rush prospectors, you can believe it.

For all of that flavour, this is a very refreshing, gluggable beer which as The Book says, successfully combines “the richness and fruitiness of an ale with the quenching character of a lager”. I couldn’t have said it better myself.

Anchor Steam Beer is very good indeed, and has been another revelation.

Facts and Figures

Brewery: Anchor Brewing Co, San Francisco, CA
Style: Steam Beer
ABV: 4.8%
Found at: City Beverage Company, Old Street, London EC1
Dispense: 355ml Bottle

21. Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout

The Draft House, SE22 is a heady, intoxicating place to while away an afternoon. Dangerously so, in fact, and I bloomin’ love it.

Following the delicious, staff-recommended 7.0% ABV Texels Bock with the 8.2% Schneider Aventinus might be considered brave at best, but only a fool would go on to round out the session with this 10.0% ABV hooligan of an Imperial Stout.

Foolish or not, we have no choice: it’s in The Book. There is science to be done.

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Brooklyn Brewery’s Black Chocolate stout is black. It’s blacker than ink. I mean, just look. It’s so black it’s actually sucking light out of the room around it.

Brooklyn’s Chocolate Stout—from the same chaps that brought us that rather nice Vienna Red lager—is brewed just once per year and the bottles are dated, a little like a vintage wine. According to my scribbled notes, this example is from the Winter 2011-12 bottling, so I assume it has been sat in a cellar somewhere, quietly maturing for a little while.

And oh my, it’s good.

Unlike Wells & Young’s comparatively puny Double Chocolate Stout, this one needs no artificial help to throw out hedonistic, decadent bitter chocolate notes. It’s all a function of the six combined varieties of black, chocolate and roasted malts that they use.

Beyond the chocolate, there’s a lovely, toasty sort of tar and soot thing going on, and a long bitter finish. And by long I mean that I drank this last week, and can still taste it. Every mouthful is an absolute treat.

It’s all topped off with that head-swimmingly intoxicating, warming double-figures alcohol hit, and suddenly all is well in the world.

Some might suggest that 10.0% ABV is a bit racy, but I believe that once a beer gets this strong and attains this level of quality, you have to stop thinking of it as a strong beer, and that comparisons with a fine wine or a liqueur are more appropriate. This is absolutely to be drunk slowly, and just savoured and enjoyed.

I didn’t expect the Chimay Bleue to be beaten for luxurious self-indulgence quite so soon, but those guys over at Brooklyn have done it.

There’s one more Brooklyn beer to track down, and considering the beers they’ve given us so far, I’m not sure I can wait.

Facts and Figures

Brewery: Brooklyn Brewery, Brooklyn, NY
Style: Porters and Stouts
Strength: 10.0% ABV
Found at: The Draft House, Lordship Lane, London SE22
Serving: 355ml bottle

20. Schneider Aventinus

The second of the dauntingly many wheat beers that I have to work my way through is also the first of what I suspect will be quite a few beers sourced from the magnificent Draft House just up the road in East Dulwich.

Costing as it does a hefty £8.50 a bottle, I hope this is a cut above the wheat beers I’ve tried in the past. Let’s see.

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Well, Schneider Aventinus is probably the least attractive beer so far, being a muddy, cloudy greyish-brown colour, not unlike something you’d expect to drain from the back of the dishwasher.

It tastes unmistakably like a wheat beer, though as a Weizenbock, it’s stronger than is typical for the style at a daunting 8.2% ABV. It’s also extra chocolatey and smooth, but still with an odd citrus tang. I’m not convinced that it really works, though no doubt there are drinkers who go nuts for this sort of thing.

Considering the strength, it’s relatively refreshing and dangerously drinkable, but there isn’t the sense of sheer luxury that real top end beers have.

That said, it’s a great deal more enjoyable and satisfying than something like Hoegaarden, and whilst there’s very little chance that wheat beer will ever be my favourite style of beer, the Aventinus is, for now at least, my new favourite wheat beer. Sorry Weihenstephaner!

Facts and Figures

Brewery: Weisses Bräuhaus G. Schneider & Sohn GmbH, Kelheim, Germany
Style: Wheat Beers
Strength: 8.2% ABV
Found at: The Draft House, Lordship Lane, London SE22
Serving: 500ml bottle

19. Timothy Taylor’s Landlord

There are several beers in The Book which I don’t feel I have to actively seek out, knowing that their ubiquity means they’ll find me: some day I’ll be in a pub where they’re the only thing worth drinking, and bingo, another one ticked off.

And so it was with Timothy Taylor’s very famous Landlord.

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Some say that this is Madonna’s favourite beer. I can only assume that she hasn’t tried many beers, since there isn’t really anything exceptional about Landlord.

Don’t get me wrong. This is a perfectly good example of a sessionable English bitter, but beyond a reasonably pleasing hoppy edge, I’m struggling to find a great deal to write about.

Not so our host Roger, who rhapsodises about the beer in The Book, citing in particular its “beautifully balanced” long finish, and its “tangy fruit, juicy malt and bitter hops”. I’m just not sure I can get that excited about it.

I feel I’m being a little harsh: in fairness, in the same circumstances, I’d actually buy Landlord again, and enjoy it too, but it’s not something I’d go out of my way for. Still, that’s another one under my belt.

Facts and Figures

Brewery: Timothy Taylor & Co, Keighley, West Yorkshire, England
Style: Best Bitters
Strength: 4.3% ABV
Found at: The Alleyn’s Head, Park Hall Road, London SE21
Serving: Cask, pint